Your source for the best Pinewood Derby axle drilling tool on the planet! It is truly Superior.
Perfect tool for the serious competitor, family with limited tools, or Scouts just there to have fun. It will save you time and help you build a better car.
Can do it all! 4-Wheel, Camber, 3-wheel, extended wheelbase
Updated July 26, 2009
SUPERIOR
Pinewood Derby
Axle Drill Jig
(AWANA derby car axle jigs available by request)
Actual feedback from my customers:
"HAPPY SCOUT IN THE HOUSE!! GREAT ITEM!!! GREAT SERVICE!!!!"
"Built nice!!!!. Shipped FAST and works great. Thanks!!"
"Excellent product! excellent seller!"
"Better than pictured!! There is something about high quality precision"
"Great product. Fast shipping"
"I wish I had this tool years ago! Thank you"
"Simple, durable, inexpensive and it works great!"
"Thanks alot very impressed with the quality of the product"
"Thanks great tool."
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The Superior tool can do:
- Adjustable axle camber what is camber???
- 4 Wheels in contact
- 3 Wheels in contact (one wheel raised)
- Extended Wheelbase
Why should I buy the Superior jig and what makes this kit unique?
- This is the only drilling tool that you need, and it works! Superior to any other Pinewood Derby axle tool.
- 100% MADE IN THE USA (yes, even the screws). Common-size parts available anywhere if you loose/break one!
- Does not require a drill press or any advanced tools / skill.
- Made of cold rolled steel, not soft aluminum like others for a lifetime of use.
- Precision milled drill guide holes are 1.25” deep which guarantees straight axle holes.
- Axles are drilled perfectly aligned to the car. If you want, Camber can be accurately set from 0 to +/- 5 degrees! - No other tool can do this!
- You can also do 3-Wheel contact axles, extended wheelbase, shortened wheelbase and 4-Wheel contact axles!
- Clearly scribed axle indicator lines place the axles perfectly on the car; both spacing and height.
- Axle hole height can be easily adjusted if desired.
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What is supplied FAQ Replacement Parts Using the Drilling Jig BUY ONE
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Supplied with kit:
1 Superior drilling jig with camber adjustment
1 #44, drill bit (standard length)
2 #10-32 set screws for camber
1 3/32” Allen wrench, for camber screws
Replacement Parts:
If you should break a drill bit or lose a screw (yes, Scouts are excellent at both), just email me and I will ship one out to you at minimal cost!
However the drill bit, screws and wrench are common sizes which are available at any hardware store!
#44 jobber length drill bit : $2.00 + s/h
#10-32 Socket head set screws (2) : $2.00 + s/h
3/32" Allen wrench : $1.00 + s/h
Drill (cordless or corded)
Flat, hard surface
3” Clamp or equivalent
Jump to: What is supplied FAQ Replacement Parts Using the Jig BUY ONE
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Preparation of car block
Before you start:
Prepare your axle holes before cutting and sanding your raw car block into a finished shape - this will help guarantee all axles to be aligned.
Epoxy - determine if you will use epoxy to reinforce the axle slot (if this is allowed). If so, consider applying epoxy to the slots prior to drilling. Drilling into the cured epoxy (J-B Weld is often used) will be easy using the Superior drilling jig, and you will have an axle hole that is much stronger than wood alone.
1) Check that your car block sides are free of splinters or surface imperfections. Run the block gently over sand paper on a flat surface to remove. You want to keep the two sides smooth and parallel, as the Superior jig is positioned against these surfaces.
2) Mark a line on the side of your car block for each axle to be drilled. Center the line on your axle slots.
3) Check to make sure the camber adjustment screws are not protruding from the bottom of the Superior Axle Jig, unless you intend to use camber. You can remove the screws or back them out. Select how you want to configure the axles below.
Now, decide how you want to build the car:
Go to the Building Directions Page
What is wheel camber???
Jump to: What is supplied FAQ Replacement Parts Using the Jig BUY ONE
FAQ:
Q: What makes this jig better than the other ones available?
A: Performance, Price, Value, Versatility, Durability
Building Tips; Rolling Straight
Q: Why doesn’t my car roll straight?
A: Most likely it’s the axles and wheels. Even if the axle holes are straight and aligned, the axles themselves must be straight and free of defects. The wheels must also have the axle hole cleaned and any plastic mold lines removed to roll freely. Very small defects can prevent your car from rolling straight.
Some easy fixes:
1) Using the drill, place each axle in it and remove any burrs with a small file while it turns. Also try to make them as straight as possible. You will see the axles wobble in the drill if they are not straight.
2) Try removing one wheel at a time and roll the car. Did it get better? This might be the bent axle or bad tire. Swap the two front wheels and axles (left to right). Note the change in how the car rolls. Try the rear. Usually, you want the car to roll as straight as possible.
3) There are many on-line sources for building tips. Try some to find interesting methods to make your car faster!
Building Tips; Pushing in the Axles
Q: My axles are very hard to push in - why?
A: The axles (actually just nails) supplied with the kits vary in dimensions - some go in with light force, and others are quite tight. Make sure the sharp end of the nail is free of burrs. You can also hold the nail by the head while gently rubbing on your sandpaper to reduce the diameter of the sharp end. Tap it in very gently and it should remain straight.
Cool Car testing ramp:
Here is a great little test ramp that my scout made out of paint stirring sticks and a piece of foam with hot melt glue. Simply hold the car at the top of the ramp and let it go. Measure your distance, make changes to the car and re-test. It really works great.
